WHEN most people hear that X Factor host Dermot O’Leary is one of the owners of the Fishy Fishy restaurant in Poole – they half expect to see the shiny-suited TV presenter propping up the bar.

In reality of course he’s rarely seen, but apparently he and his partners were responsible for the look and feel of the brasserie which is situated in the redeveloped Poole Pottery building, now Dolphin Quay, overlooking the harbour.

The decor is a tasteful nautical theme with low ship-style lights, cream, blue and dark wood. There’s a large board explaining the Fishy Fishy mission statement. All the fish and seafood is caught in the English Channel when it is in season, hence no cod in the summer or lobster in the winter, and nothing is imported – perfect for seafood lovers with a social conscience!

For starters I had three scallops presented in a large clam shell, drizzled with lime and coriander butter and served with some mixed salad leaves. It was tasty but a slightly bigger portion would have made me feel it was more value for money. My friend had a pint glass of fresh-tasting north Atlantic prawns served cold with creamy garlic mayonnaise and Marie Rose sauce.

One of my favourite comfort foods on a cold winter’s night is fish pie so I was keen to try the Fishy Fishy version which was served in a circular dish with a small portion of roasted vegetables on the side. Beneath the cheesy mashed potato topping was a selection of sustainable tender white fish, prawns and local scallops in a classic béchamel sauce.

Meanwhile my friend was tucking into a plateful of stuffed squid that was served with a perfectly cooked seafood risotto and oven-baked in a Provençal sauce.

We were then presented with what looked like a couple of white tablets on a tea plate. Our waiter then poured water over them and they expanded into warm wet towels which was a novel idea.

To round off the meal we ordered two lattes which were fine although it would have been nice if they had come with a small biscuit or chocolate.

All in it was a lovely evening and the service was good, but I’ve eaten better fish dishes at similar prices. However I will go back for lunch one day as I can imagine it will be a great place to sit with a glass of chilled white wine and watch the boats in the harbour.

• This is an independent review by a reporter without the co-operation of the establishment.

Fishy Fishy is open from 12 noon until 11pm seven days a week.

Call 01202 680793 or visit fishyfishy.co.uk