IF the proprietor is a key part of any restaurant’s success, then Fascino Italiano, the fashion café, already has it made.

Owner Alex Marra is an irresistible Neapolitan character who works the room like the old pro he is, with 30-plus years in the business locally.

One minute he’s in full flow, talking with you about anything under the sun, then he’s off because he has spotted another table is ready for the next course or glasses need refilling.

It’s all done very smoothly and with apparent effortlessness.

The place bubbles over with super Italian hospitality and charm.

Alex is, even his staff admit, “full on”.

He launched the café restaurant in Fir Vale Road, Bournemouth, in July and it’s not the most obvious location for such an upmarket (though not expensive) establishment, smack in the middle of clubland.

“The road doesn’t have the greatest name, especially late at night, but we think Fascino Italiano will really lift it,” says Alex.

The place is stylishly decorated and spacious inside and striking too on the outside.

There’s a nice terrazza and a couple of big, ornate gas flames providing a warm welcome.

The clientele is a good mix of middle aged and older customers along with younger people and families.

Tonight one of the diners is Casualty and Hollyoaks actor, James Redmond, enjoying a relaxing meal before heading off for a one-man stand-up show at nearby Lava Ignite. He’s impressed.

Our starter comprised a great combination of bruschetta pomodoro (£3.55), ciabatta topped with chopped tomatoes, onions and fresh basil and bruschetta fascino (£4.75), ciabatta with pan fried mushrooms and balsamic vinegar.

This was followed by tagliatelle pollo (£8.95), pasta mixed in cherry tomato sauce (and cream) with smoked pancetta, chicken strips, mushroom and fresh basil. Again, delicious.

The main course is something new to the menu. You are presented with a hot block of stone upon which to cook either chicken or sirloin steak yourself, how ever you like it. It comes with fries, sauces and a fresh, crisp salad.

It’s fun, a very sociable way to eat and makes the dining experience even more enjoyable. Price varies on this option.

However you might want to try any of the pasta and pizza dishes, especially the tortellini Giorgio Armani! The menu at Fascino Italiano is not huge but that’s the way Alex has designed it.

“We can cook everything absolutely fresh,” he says.

“And people notice the difference. Customers are very discerning these days.”

He’s put a lot of time and effort into the café restaurant (which also caters between 5pm-7pm for after-workers to wind down with a glass of beer or wine and Italian tapas).

“Well, either you do something 100 per cent or you don’t bother,” he says.

“That’s my motto.”