Welcome to the first of an exclusive new monthly series by Sue Quinn, a local food writer and author of several cookery books. This month Sue shares her ideas on how to make the most of this season’s squash.

GREENGROCER’S shelves are bulging at the moment with weird and wonderful winter squash, which is brilliant news for those of us who love the stuff. There’s a lot more to this versatile veg than carving Halloween heads – the sweet, fleshy texture is comforting in the cold weather and great in everything from soups and curries to fritters and salads. It’s also incredibly good for you.

This recipe is perfect for those a bit unsure about eating squash, as the maple syrup and spices enhance its natural sweetness. Choose any squash you like – butternut is always wonderful but experiment with the lovely varieties available at the moment.

Squash aren’t exactly squashy so they need a bit of elbow work to cut – the following method works for me. Insert the tip of a large pointed knife into the top of the squash and carve downwards to the base, then do the same on the other side. Pull the two halves apart and scoop out the seeds and membranes with a spoon. Place each half cut-side down on a chopping board and slice into wedges. I leave the skin on because I think the texture and flavour is delicious, but each to their own.

Maple roasted squash Squash cooked this way is fantastic with roast meat, but there are loads of delish ways to eat it. Toss it with watercress or other leafy greens, plus some goat’s cheese, pomegranate seeds and a spicy yoghurt dressing. Or chop and mix with warm grains like barley or spelt, add some fried chorizo slices and toss with a simple vinaigrette. Mashed up with other veg, it also makes a splendid bubble and squeak.

(Serves 4–6 as a side) 1 squash or pumpkin, about 1kg 2 tablespoons butter 90ml olive oil 6 cardamom pods, crushed with the side of a knife 3 bay leaves 2 tablespoons maple syrup a pinch of nutmeg 2 garlic cloves, crushed Preheat your oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6. Cut the squash into wedges about 2cm wide at the thickest part (try the method above) and pop into a baking tray. In a small pan, melt the butter then add the oil, cardamom, bay leaves, maple syrup, nutmeg and garlic. Swirl the pan so the flavours mingle. Pour this buttery goodness over the squash and toss with your hands so every piece is coated. Bake for 30-40 minutes – the exact time will depend on the kind of squash – until tender. Shake the pan now and then during roasting.

Where to buy local pumpkin and squash n Goldhill Organics, based in Child Okeford near Blandford Forum, has a beautiful range of organic squash, including butternuts, acorn, onion and gem. Buy from the farm shop or via their box scheme. Contact info@goldhillorganics.com or call 01747 811077 for more information.

  • Bothen Hill Produce, based in Bridport, also has a great selection available through its box scheme (limited area), Bridport Farmers’ Market, selected farm shops and at the farm gate (Friday only). For more information call 01308 424 271 or visit bothenhillproduce.co.uk.
  • Sue Quinn’s latest book, The Kids Only Cook Book, is out now (Quadrille, £12.99). Follow her on twitter @penandspoon and enjoy recipes at penandspoon.com