THE former Mansion House in Poole, a Virginia creeper-clad Grade II-listed Georgian building, is now part of the popular and award-winning Hotel du Vin group, a select collection of 15 luxury and boutique hotels throughout the UK.

Situated in the Old Town, just off the Quay, it’s an impressive place in an already lovely location.

No expense has been spared to create that familiar HdV feel, but it’s an understated and reassuring opulence, not remotely intimidating, which is exactly how it’s supposed to be.

Although this is surely the classiest hotel in the town centre, it would be wrong to describe it as exclusive.

In fact, it’s just the opposite. It’s inclusive and welcoming, just the ticket for someone in search of somewhere to relax and unwind away from the stresses and strains of their working lives.

The frontage on Thames Street, overlooking the church square, gives you a good idea of the delights within.

A few steps takes you into the reception area, with its sweeping staircase leading up to the hotel rooms.

Take the stairs down to the right, and you’re in the bar area, with the bar itself made from restored oak barrels and the sofas typically leather and swaddling.

The bistro, which can seat up to 80 people, is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, or you can pop in for a sandwich (including croque monsieur, steak baguette or classic club) or something quick and easy from the light bites menu.

Our dinner was delicious. I opted for mushroom soup with garlic croutons, followed by perfectly cooked steak with prawns. My partner had smoked duck and chicory for starter, and lobster thermidor as her main.

Our puddings were divine, and the wine, recommended by bar manager, Jeremy, from Paris, was a perfect accompaniment to a fabulous meal.

The HdV philosophy is to serve the finest and freshest local produce, cooked simply and priced sensibly.

Three courses, including wine and coffee, should set you back no more than £40 – and there’ll be something to suit all tastes, with a wider than average choice for vegetarians, for example; sumptuous seafood; or Dorset escargot bourginon with spinach and poached egg, perhaps, for the more adventurous.

Hotel du Vin is known for its extensive and eclectic wine list, of course, and there’s a well-equipped wine tasting area just off the bar for those with a nose for a fine vintage.

With daily specials supplementing the menu, this is classic European cuisine at its best, whether you’re popping in for fishcake and fries on a shopping trip or celebrating a special occasion.

And whereas the old dining area was starved of natural daylight, the new-look bistro offers a light and airy space, with three sets of double doors leading out to a courtyard partly covered by a ship’s sail, a knowing nod to the port’s heritage.

Another reference to maritime history lies in the naming of two meeting rooms, Port and Starboard, which can be used for family meals or friendly get-togethers.

Hotel du Vin, 5-11 Thames Street, Poole, BH15 1JN, 01202 785570 or visit hotelduvin.com