ON a derelict street corner in Liverpool city centre, the graffiti artist Banksy painted a giant rat scrawling red crayon across the walls.

That’s Liverpool - decaying, inspiring, energetic and irreverent.

There are problems but so much more to be proud of. I love the numerous art galleries and theatres.

The last time I went to Tate Liverpool, one room was full of classical sculptures and decked out like a disco – you wandered around listening to different tones on headphones.

You could hear a concert at the philharmonic concert hall, then eat in its cellar bistro, and enjoy Irish musicians striking up an impromptu show, as I did.

Chinatown offers authentic food much tastier than the gloop from the average high street takeaway – I had braised halibut that I still daydream about.

The massive Liverpool ONE shopping complex has finally opened and this slate grey city within a city is a beautiful sight when the Christmas lights are out.

Tourist favourites include the regenerated Albert Dock, now full of shops and museums, and the birthplace of The Beatles, the Cavern Club.

The nightlife is amazing. A proper pub is never more than a few yards away and the bars are not just for poseurs.

And people of all ages go out. It’s not just drunken kids.

The last train back to my hometown, Widnes, has more sozzled, loved up, and raucous middle-aged friends on board than menacing youths.

St George’s Hall, one of the many Victorian and Georgian buildings in the city centre, is a monumental sight as you step out of Lime Street train station.

You are only a short ferry ride from Dublin and Belfast, or a fairly short drive from Manchester or the Lake District.

The crime is bad and the streets are dirty and there are plenty of scallies around. But it’s a city that is looking to the future while it celebrates its past.