SMALL though it is, Guernsey is an island that thrives on its surprises.

The coast is a good place to start – you can’t really avoid it on an island of just 30 square miles.

With the second largest tidal range in the world, the diverse coastline – tumbling cliffs to the south, sandy bays to the west – alters its appearance by the hour.

Visit at the right time and you can walk all the way out to islands, such as the one at L’Eree beach.

Inland, there is just as much to discover.

Many of the rural backdrops appear to have fallen straight out of a Constable painting.

The hedgerow-lined “Ruettes Tranquilles” give priority to those on bike, foot or horse, with speed limits set at 15mph.

Guernsey also bears fascinating historic scars, from Napoleonic-era coastal defences to the underground military hospital constructed during the Nazi occupation of the Second World War.

With just one significant town – St Peter Port, population just over 16,000 – Guernsey is a chilled place to soak up coast and countryside.

Bikes are the best way to explore the island – even on the main roads, speed limits are set to just 35mph.

Eleven specially designated routes have been laid out across the island.

Route two provides a perfect snapshot of Guernsey.

The coastal stretch winds from cove to cove, past cake-and-crab-sandwich-laden kiosks, before heading inland.

The highlight is the number “hedge veg” boxes hidden away among the country lanes.

Home-produced goods are laid out in honesty boxes at the side of the road – fresh eggs, tomatoes, beans and flowers are just a few of the goodies you stumble upon.

If water’s more your bag, then sliding into a kayak is a great way to explore the coast.

Hiring from Outdoor Guernsey (outdoorguernsey.co.uk), just outside St Peter Port, you can visit decent chunks of the island’s coast thanks to its petite size.

Cliffs and beaches shrink as the tide rises, and a wide selection of seabirds share the water and rocks with you.

For walkers, a day trip to the tiny neighbouring island of Herm is a treat.

Just a 20-minute ferry ride from St Peter Port, the tranquil setting is known as the playground of Guernsey residents.

Inhabited by just a permanent working community of 60, you feel like a castaway.

Walking along the cliffs, inhabited by puffins during the summer, you can gaze across to the other Channel Islands of Sark and Alderney.

On a clear day, you can also make out the Normandy coast.

It’s a timely reminder of the islands’ proximity to France – otherwise, the white sand and alarmingly turquoise water of Shell Beach might have you believe you’re in the Caribbean.

Seafood inevitably dominates menus in Guernsey, with fine scallops, crab, sea bass and brill among the offerings.

The cooking incorporates both French and English styles, and even pub grub borders on fine dining.

Guernsey has been forced to play second fiddle to its larger Channel Island neighbour, Jersey, in the past.

But anyone with an adventurous streak should consider putting Guernsey top of their list.

Getting there

For more information on Guernsey go to visitguernsey.com or call the Guernsey Information Centre on 01481 723552

• Flybe (0871 700 2233, flybe.com) flies to Guernsey several times a day from Southampton, with return fares from £114. Guernsey can also be reached via ferry from Poole, Weymouth or Portsmouth

• Bed-and-breakfast accommodation at the four-star Bella Luce Hotel (01481 238764, bellalucehotel.com) starts at £130 per room per night, twin-share