TAKE away the joy of a curry after a night in the pub and you’d be removing a vital strand from the very fabric of modern society. Not that anyone is threatening to, you understand, but it’s just occurred to me the charming folks at Monsoon may have found a new twist on old English behaviour – now you can take away a fine Indian meal from the pub.

It’s a few years since Monsoon was the well-passed-its-best Railway Tavern and locals have long accepted its unique blend of English boozer and Indian restaurant – but the takeaway service is every bit as good.

All the old favourites are there, but dive into the Monsoon Finest Selections and stretch the taste buds.

There’s a pleasingly rich warmth about the Garlic Chili Mosala, with its tender chicken and subtle coriander, that beats the all-too familiar brashness of cut-through-alcohol heat of food from many lesser establishments.

Temper that with the exciting blend of sweetness and coconut in the Peshwari Chicken and you’re on to a winner.

The keema rice, with minced lamb, added yet more texture and taste; while the pilau was deliciously understated; and a chipper triptych of sag, gobi and mushroom side dishes turned a simple takeaway into a late afternoon feast.

The bill came to £29.80.