The sights of Norway (From Bournemouth Echo)

The sights of Norway

10:00am Saturday 16th January 2010 in

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IN the land of the midnight sun, Norway’s indigenous people, the Sami, chant songs or “joik” for one another.

Each person has their own joik, encapsulating their personality.

It’s a clue as to how the Sami survived the Arctic conditions of the North Cape coast, where temperatures can plummet to minus 40.

But Norway’s political and economic conditions have changed dramatically since the Sami roamed the landscape, herding reindeer and sheltering in Lavvo (tepee-style tents).

My journey in northern Norway couldn’t have been more removed from the hardships of Sami life.

I travelled on board MS Finnmarken, one of Hurtigruten’s newest ships.

It has to be one of the most relaxing ways of exploring this dramatic landscape.

Standing on a ship’s deck searching the inky night skies for the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights) is an unforgettable experience – as is meeting people along the way and hearing their stories of these enigmatic celestial displays.

Our cruise began in Tromso, “the gateway to the Arctic”, situated on Norway’s fifth biggest island (600 islands make up the country) with 3,000ft mountains protecting it from the Atlantic.

Stories abound of explorers who set off from here in search of the North West Passage, and there’s plenty of historic architecture (only one bomb fell on Tromso during the Second World War, and even that didn’t explode).

Many of the old merchants’ houses are now bijou shops, and we lunched at the 150-year-old Aunegarden, a former warehouse on stilts, situated in the oldest street, with the road’s curve showing where shoreline once was.

Tromso, one of the fastest growing cities in Arctic Norway, hosts the national reindeer sledding championships every February.

In winter, foodies flock here for the outstanding torsk (cod), while in summer, families spend long, sunny evenings on the beach, enjoying barbecues and poaching coley in seawater.

We made an early morning stop at Hammerfest, the world’s most northerly town, before arriving at Honningsvag, the largest fishing village in Finnmark, and the nearest port to North Cape.

A coach took us across the island of Mageroya, a dramatic landscape of windswept hills, lakes, waterfalls and cotton grass.

Some 5,000 reindeer spend summer on the island, and other wildlife to look out for include Arctic fox, minks, otters, lemmings, grey seals, harbour porpoises, white beaked dolphins and ringed seals. Millions of seabirds flock to the rocks of North Cape in spring and summer, including kittiwakes, cormorants and puffins.

Just five Sami families now bring reindeer from the Finnish border Mageroya to feast on its grass, moss and lichen.

In September the reindeer swim 1.8km back to the Finnish border where they spend winter.

North Cape, Norway’s most northerly spot, has been a tourist haven since 1875, and its visitor centre is modern and informative.

A theatre built into the cliff presents shows of the Midnight Sun and Northern Lights.

Our final stop was Kirkenes, from where you can take a riverboat up the Pasvik to the Russian border.

We stayed at the Rica Arctic Hotel, part of Norway’s biggest chain, where activities include diving for king crab, deep sea rafting, dog sledding and snow mobile safaris.

We set off on a quadbiking trip to the border, with a chance to look around Kirkenes, described as a modern day Klondike.

The town was mostly destroyed in the Second World War, but 10,000 people live here and plenty more are setting up home after a mining company opened last year, creating 350 new jobs.

We met a Sami couple, Piera Kirste Jovsset and wife Paivi, who run a Sami heritage centre and restaurant.

They welcomed us with cups of hot cranberry drink and at their timber restaurant we had char (a fish starter) followed by Biidos samisk tradisjonsmat (a reindeer soup served at weddings) and a pudding of tytteboerkrem (lingonberries and cream) washed down with glasses of Mack, a pale local beer.

Hurtigruten recently introduced more themed voyages to choose from, and now there are experts on hand to explain everything from the myths behind the Northern Lights to how to capture stunning pictures of the Arctic landscape.

Fact file

• Hurtigruten (0208 846 2666, hurtigruten.co.uk) operates year-round voyages along the Norwegian coast, allowing passengers to see the Midnight Sun during the summer and Northern Lights during the winter.

• Most people choose to do the full Classic Round Voyage from Bergen in the south to Kirkenes in the far north and back again, or alternatively just book a one-way trip. Ships call at around 35 ports and excursions include the trip to the North Cape from Honningsvåg (£72 per person), quadbiking in summer (£94pp) and the Sami Experience, including dinner (£35pp).

• For 2010, the sevenday Classic Voyage North starts from £1,275pp, including six nights’ full board on the ship, return flights (Gatwick) and transfers. Regional flights are available at a supplement.

• During the winter, Hurtigruten offers shorter Northern Lights voyages, ideal for those who want a few days away in the Arctic with a range of experiences such as dog sledding, snowmobiling or staying in an ice hotel.