ALTHOUGH it’s one of Bournemouth’s most historic landmarks, the 1812 restaurant at The Royal Exeter Hotel has not been slow to move with the times.

Head chef Francis Baumer describes it as “fine dining brasserie-style” and says they try to use as much local produce as possible.

To get to the restaurant at the back of the hotel which is in Exeter Road opposite the BIC, you have to walk through the uber chic 1812 bar that was buzzing with a mixture of holidaymakers and local residents even on a mid-week evening.

It looked so inviting that we couldn’t resist stopping en route to enjoy a refreshing pre-dinner cocktail – the bar staff mix a magnificent Mohito!

After soaking up the party atmosphere for a while we then wandered through the open glass doors to the restaurant.

Tastefully furnished with dark wood and decorated in chocolate browns, deep reds and abstract art, the ambience, décor and lighting is just right.

We were met by a friendly waitress who let us pick our table, so we opted for a cosy corner where we were left to peruse the menu whilst nibbling on some warm, freshly-buttered bread rolls and a selection of olives.

The menu is classic French/British cuisine with a modern twist and a good balance of starters, main courses and sweets complimented with a selection of old and new wines.

For my first course I had the naturally-smoked haddock and leek and potato croquettes which appeared to have been deep-fried but were light and crispy and dressed with a marinated fennel and cucumber salad topped with a perfectly cooked soft poached egg. (£5.95) My husband went for the Thai-style smoked chicken and noodle salad (£6.25). Although he had hoped the chicken might be warm, it was a cold dish which turned out to be a surprisingly tasty and refreshing summer starter.

For my next course I had the pan-fried fillet of wild sea bass (line caught) served on a leek, pea, broad bean and crayfish risotto finished with pea shoots and a tangy lemon and basil dressing (£16.50). The fish was succulent and tender and served with a good balance of different textures and flavours and it was well presented.

My husband chose the 10z west country sirloin steak which was served with a rich peppercorn and button onion sauce and accompanied with fries and tomato and onion salad (£18.50) which, he thoroughly enjoyed.

To round off our meal we shared a cheese board of three very different local cheeses, a home-made chutney and some locally-made biscuits (£4.50).

If you were wondering about the name it has nothing to do with Tchaikovsky’s overture. The bar and restaurant is named after the date that the founder of Bournemouth, Captain Lewis Tregonwell, took up residence there.

According to the restaurant’s literature, his was the first house in Bourne that derived from a geographical reference to the little Bourne (burna) meaning stream which was later to give Bournemouth its name.

The house was then purchased by Henry Newlyn in 1876 who extended the mansion and it became known as Newlyns Family Hotel. After numerous visits by the Royal Family it acquired its present title, The Royal Exeter Hotel.

The 1812 restaurant and bar has won several awards over the past three years and it is easy to see why.

The menu isn’t cheap but you’re not just paying for good food you are also paying for the location and atmosphere.

• For more information call 01202 203050.