IT'S said that a sign of a good restaurant is the number of locals it gets through the doors. And here's a place which attracts more than its fair share.

Being situated right on a stretch of shore in Poole with fine, golden sand, gradual sloping beach and clean bathing water, the Branksome Beach restaurant naturally is a welcome oasis for tourists in the summertime. But, as restaurant manager Paul points out, a place such as this has to be so much more than a location. Proof of the pudding is that it's popular year-round. Even in the depths of winter, it's thriving, thanks to the local residents who brave all manner of elements for an enjoyable, good quality meal out.

And now spring is here, everyone can enjoy the benefit of the newly refurbished premises in Pinecliff Road.

As well as a larger downstairs terrace, there's a contemporary upper deck bar with relaxed soft seating area outside, as well as a new Charvet kitchen, described as the Rolls Royce' of kitchens.

State-of-the-art floor to ceiling windows have also been installed to make the most of the stunning views.

Despite the change of scene, the ambience is as relaxed as ever, with jazz evenings on a Friday in the main restaurant. Adjacent is Café Branksome where you can stop for a coffee or a take-away, and staff are gearing up to host barbecues in the summer months.

Alongside the refurbishment is a new spring menu, which in the evenings is priced just £17.50 for two courses and £21.50 for three.

If you're an early bird, you may want to drop in and choose from the surprisingly comprehensive breakfast menu. Lunches and afternoon teas are also served, and as the Branksome Beach is particularly child friendly, a menu for the under-10s includes some scrumptious sounding options using the same top quality local ingredients.

On a recent evening jaunt, my friend and I both fancied the sound of the famed Branksome Beach fish & chips. We had tried the chips here before and we hankered after those chunky, hand-cut, golden lovelies once more.

When the fish arrived the beer batter looked quite dark and I worried it may have reflected in the taste, but not so. It also surrounded the freshest, chunkiest fillet of haddock which came with an individual basket of chips (a nice quirky touch) and a side portion of minted mushy peas. What could be finer?

From the specials board we nearly went for the West Country sirloin steak which came either simply grilled, or with peppercorn sauce, or with an intriguing sounding café de Paris butter. Restaurant manager Paul explained how this contained herbs, cumin, orange and brandy.

Tempting, but when he then described how the roast fillet of cod on the menu also came with lemon and thyme lentils, slow roasted tomato and wild rocket, we opted for the latter and weren't disappointed.

The cod was superb and the humble lentil was given a fresh and complementary twist.

To start I'd gone for a warm salad of wild mushrooms with dandelion and walnuts. The unusual mix of mushrooms, rather than being smothered with a heavy sauce, was instead drizzled with a Dorset Blue Vinny dressing, a far classier choice.

My friend went for a starter from that evening's specials board - Scottish smoked salmon which was of unsurpassable quality, served with warm blinis and a delicate vodka crème fraiche which cut through the richness of the other ingredients.

One glass of citrussy Chardonnay for me and a rose pinot grigio for my friend later, a selection of sweet treats were calling out to us from the dessert menu. The classic lemon tart was a popular choice that evening, but instead we shared the apricot and elderflower cheesecake.

Rather than a cut wedge, the creamy mixture was served in a quenelle, with an apricot compote, capped with a home made biscuit containing subtle chunks of ginger. Certainly not your run-of-the-mill cheesecake.

Despite the quality food, experienced staff and prime location, Branksome Beach is anything but stiff and formal. From the moment we set foot in the place, we were so well looked after it was hard to prize ourselves away.

And with a natural playground on its doorstep, after one visit, you might just start wishing you were a local Branksome Beach, Pinecliff Road, Branksome Chine, Poole. Tel: 01202 767235. See website link below.