I'VE eaten at The Print Room many times, yet I still stop in awe whenever I first enter this vast, opulent restaurant in the centre of Bournemouth.

The huge room is where the Daily Echo's printing presses once used to roll, and while the place is now polished and shiny, it has a healthy respect for the era in which it was built.

As part of a classic Art Deco building, designed as a beacon of hope coming out of the great depression, it was only fitting to bedeck the room with decent, solid pieces that take you back to the grandiose 1930s.

The high ceilings are now home to massive Swarovski crystal chandeliers which stand guard over black and white tiled floors, a dark wood bar, huge palms and plenty of mirror and pewter.

In short, it's like stepping into an old-style New York or Parisian brasserie.

And there's the classic, efficient yet warm welcome, too, with neat-as-a-pin staff and the feeling of genuine sanctuary from everyday hustle and bustle, whatever time you choose to visit.

Food is served from eight in the morning until 10 at night (11pm on Fridays and Saturdays), apart from the half hour turnover between breakfast and lunch.

It means you can enjoy anything from a plate of charcuterie to a Dorset cream tea, to omelette and chips to lobster Thermidor via 101 things in between.

On a recent evening visit, I chose the baked goats cheese gratin (£5.50) with red onion marmalade and aged balsamic vinaigrette. The round of cheese was kept company by a fresh mixed salad to cut through the sharpness and richness of the main attraction. If you're after a heartier starter, don't forget to ask for some home made bread, then spread thickly and enjoy.

My friend chose the hand carved Dorset smoked salmon (£5.50) which was crumbly - almost buttery - and had a proper smoky flavour just like all smoked salmon should taste.

A small sprinkling of shallot and baby capers - plus half a lemon wrapped in muslin to give you nothing but juice - were all that were needed to let the natural quality of the fish shine through.

To follow, I chose the pan roasted fillet of Tor Bay sole (£17) from the specials of the day, and I wasn't disappointed. Honed into neat fillets, there was no need to go on a huge bone-removing spree. The delicate sole was served with a delicious fresh herb risotto, laced with peas which gave additional little bursts of flavour, and a clam sauce.

Being a real lover of comfort food, my friend went for the chicken and mushroom pie (£10).

Here's a classic example of how a simple dish can be utterly fabulous if executed well. Tucked beneath a golden pastry lid were possibly the largest pieces of chicken I'd ever seen in a pie, cloaked in a creamy sauce with a hint of onion and tarragon. This came with a bowl of French fries, but we also requested side orders of roasted root vegetables and broccoli hollandaise.

It left little room for one of my favourite things on the menu - the oozy treacle tart with Dorset cream (£5). But after re-visiting the specials menu, we decided to share the delicately lacy lemon pancakes (£4) with maple syrup on the side.

The Print Room gets my vote as somewhere which really stands apart from the crowd. It has only been open since September yet it is already attracting families, groups, business people, friends and couples enjoying everything from a lavish evening meal, to a good-quality breakfast to coffee, cake and a welcome break from shopping.

It has recently introduced events such as wine tastings and opera nights to its repertoire.

Luxurious yet accessible, top quality yet affordable. As far as local dining experiences go, you won't get much better than this.

  • The Print Room, Richmond Hill, Bournemouth BH2 6HH. Telephone 01202 789669 for reservations