IT has been 10 years in the planning, but the Upper Deck restaurant in Southbourne has arrived with perfect timing.

Just as our seafront towns are enjoying something of a regeneration, promoting a waterside lifestyle as one to aspire to, the Grange Hotel is riding its own wave.

As its name would suggest, the new restaurant has been created on the upper deck of the established hotel on Southbourne's overcliff. Such a prime location goes hand in hand with extensive use of glass, understated décor (the view is the wallpaper) and an outdoor terrace for our balmier evenings.

Ambient lighting in different colours changes to suit the mood of the evening, and the music reflects the rhythms of the sea rather than the latest charts.

And let's not forget the food which is enthusiastically created in an open kitchen by chefs whose food ethos is simply fresh and local'.

Time your visit right, and you may bump into a fisherman delivering his catch fresh from local waters. The lobster and crab, for example, are caught off Hengistbury Head and on your plate within hours. Meat is sourced from local butchers, too, and other seasonal produce drives an ever-changing menu.

Fish and shellfish lovers are amply catered for, and there's as much choice for vegetarians as there is for meat eaters.

Our meal started with pan fried scallops (£6.50) served with wild rocket and chorizo dressing, which arrived whole and incredibly plump and juicy. The finely chopped chorizo added a delicious smoky bite to the dish which received a resounding thumbs up.

We also went for the smoked duck breast (£6.50) which offered a light but really tasty starter, refreshingly different from the norm. The excellent quality smoky sliced meat came with an Asian-style salad including green onion and beansprouts.

To follow I chose the pan fried fillet of turbot (£15.50) - a meaty yet delicate tasting fillet with fresh young broad beans and a grain mustard sauce. It was served with truffle infused mashed potatoes, and the flavours worked brilliantly together without overshadowing any others.

My friend had the slow braised shoulder of pork (£14) - again a refreshing sight on the menu. It was so tender it just fell apart on the plate and was served in a calvados sauce with chargrilled apple. The rosti potato was an absolute delight as it had gone a little bit sticky and caramelised around the edges.

The portions were as such that our side orders of new potatoes and seasonal vegetables (£2.75 each) were almost superfluous.

Confident that any dessert would come up to the same standard as our earlier courses, we left the choice up to the chef.

Before long we were presented with a raspberry and white chocolate frangipane tart (rather like a Bakewell tart for grown-ups) which was light yet indulgent - without being too sweet. Home-made vanilla bean ice cream was the perfect partner.

The baked chocolate cheesecake was also a pleasant surprise. Its texture was somewhere between a mousse and a fudge which just melted in the mouth. A dollop of clotted cream added a rustic touch.

And all washed down with a glass of Californian rose. Perfect!

With ample free parking nearby, we could relax knowing we didn't have to run to put more money in the meter. The staff were brilliant, taking a real pride in this new venture and rightly so.

Already they are working towards an AA rosette for the restaurant and if our visit was anything to go by, it's already in the bag.

The Upper Deck Restaurant, The Grange Hotel, Southbourne Overcliff Drive, Bournemouth. Tel: 01202 433093.