MADEIRA is an object lesson in disaster recovery. My flight from Gatwick touched down on the “Pearl of the Atlantic” almost exactly a month after the catastrophic floods of February 20, which claimed the lives of 42 people and reduced parts of the island to rubble.

But as I made the 12-mile transfer from the airport to downtown Funchal – the worst affected part of the island – evidence of disaster was in short supply.

This was partly due to the localised nature of the flooding, but largely a testament to the Madeiran people, whose pride in the giant botanical garden that is their home is evident from the immaculate houses that stud the lush green terraces on which almost anything grows.

Madeira is the largest island in an archipelago some 350 miles from the North African coast, and formed of volcanic rock, whose rich iron content is responsible for its remarkable verdancy.

Potatoes are harvested four times a year; strawberries six times. Crops from bananas to grapes grow with incredible speed on the neat terraces that score Madeira’s vertiginous gradient.

The challenge for an island whose economy is almost entirely dependent on tourism is to transmit the message that a “business as usual” footing was resumed within days of the disaster.

Miguel Caldeira, general manager of Charming Hotels, tells me that in the first week after the floods, nearly every holiday was cancelled. In the second week, his hotel received five bookings against an expected 80.

Business is starting to increase, but while bad news travels fast, good news, it seems, spreads less quickly.

The group’s flagship, Quinta das Vistas, nestles elegantly among the charming, narrow side streets that surround Funchal, and is at once discreet and accessible.

Its modern décor is elegantly uncluttered, but comfortable, and provides an unobtrusive background to the serious business of relaxation – seemingly the speciality of the house.

An exquisite swimming pool spreads languidly from the hotel’s interior to the manicured gardens, its 35-degree waters negating any change in ambient temperature.

The Chandra Spa provides a range of treatments for those in search of some holiday pampering. The jet lag massage justifies the flight.

The restaurant terrace provides commanding views of Funchal harbour.

Quinta do Monte is located further up the mountain, its 17-acre garden a Unesco World Heritage site.

Built in the mid-19th century as the Madeiran home of an English wine merchant, and later the residence of the island’s first governor, the hotel is built and furnished in the colonial style.

Grandfather clocks, venerable desks, and numerous elegant drawing rooms furnish the reception and lounge areas, where attractively patterned rugs decorate the waxed wooden floors.

Checking in feels like gaining membership to a rather exclusive gentleman’s club, but thoughts of Mayfair or Pall Mall are carried away on the warm breeze which provides the finishing touch to an exquisite lunch enjoyed beneath the shade of a palm tree in the hotel’s exquisite gardens.

The haute cuisine artworks served at both hotels provide some of the highlights of my stay on the island.

Wednesday nights at the Quintas das Vistas’ beautifully appointed La Belle Terrace restaurant feature the modestly titled (but not priced) “tastings menu”, and the eight-course indulgence is nothing less than a display of culinary virtuosity.

Dining at the Hotel De Monte is no less satisfying.

Those in search of a luxurious break in the soft, warm climate of a perfect English summer day could do worse than search behind the headlines for the real Madeira. Three-hour flights from Bournemouth and London bring the island within easy reach.

About Madeira

• Madeira is famous for wine, flowers and embroidery. It also hosts the world’s biggest fireworks display as part of its New Year’s Eve celebrations.

•Funchal is a regular stop-off for cruise ships en route from Europe to the Caribbean.

•The island measures 35 miles by 22 miles.

Its highest point is 6,000ft above sea level.

• Madeira means “wood” in Portugese, and the island was once covered in sub-tropical rainforest, part of which remains, mainly in the north, and has been designated a World Heritage Site.

• Famous Madeirans include explorer Christopher Columbus and footballer Cristiano Ronaldo.

Getting there:

• Quinta das Vistas and Quinta do Monte are owned by Charming Hotels Madeira – for more information, visit charminghotelsmadeira.com

• Prices from £445 per person for three nights and £733 for seven nights at Quinta das Vista; from £383 per person for three nights and £536 for seven nights at Quinta do Monte. Prices based on b&b in a twin/double garden view room, including flights and private taxi transfers (see classic-collection.co.uk or call free on 0800 294 93 15).

• EasyJet flies to Funchal from Bristol, Gatwick and Stansted – easyjet.com

• Thomson flies to Funchal from Bournemouth – thomson.co.uk

• To book flight and hotel, visit classic-collection.co.uk