IF you want to get off the beaten track in France and rediscover the country’s rural charms, the Auvergne region is the perfect destination.

Less than three hours by train from Paris, set in the Massif Central, it has as much to offer as Provence, Bordeaux and the Dordogne.

It’s rich in history, with many castles and chateaux, medieval towns and picturesque villages.

It also has a varied and astonishing landscape that anyone who loves the outdoors will want to explore.

Right now the trees and hedgerows will be changing colour to fiery reds and golds. The south enjoys a thriving winter sports season while in the spring and summer the whole region becomes an outdoor adventure playground with opportunities for hiking, cycling and horseriding and many more activities.

English couple David and Colleen Sharpe run a stylish B&B, La Grange du Belvedere, in the ancient hill village of Charroux.

David describes the Auvergne as “old France – it’s got the ambience, the sporting activities, beautiful villages, it’s what the English used to come to France for.

“It’s got the same climate as the south, but none of the winds. It hasn’t got as many people and it’s so central for tourists. It has everything the Dordogne has, but remains relatively undiscovered by the British.”

In the north you’ll find leafy lanes, gently rolling farmland, vineyards and ancient forests; further south breathtaking mountain ranges, including a chain of 80 volcanic peaks that sprawls over 30 miles. It is from here that Volvic mineral water comes and the superior puy green lentils, which grow on the fertile volcanic slopes.

There are two main rivers – the Allier, said to be Europe’s last great unspoilt river, and the Sioule, perfect for white-water rafting.

A 15-mile stretch of the Allier has been designated a nature reserve – guided excursions, either by foot or canoe/ kayak, start from Moulins and, further downstream, Vichy.

One day we picked our way along the banks of the silvery-green Sioule on horseback; the next found us mountain-biking in the hills near the market town of Riom. Hiking in the Montagne Bourbonnaise, we came across a group of 60-somethings collecting wild myrtle berries from the hillside to make into jam.

The Auvergne Volcanoes Regional Park is criss-crossed by hiking paths. The emblematic 4,850ft Puy de Dome volcano was revered by the ancient Celts as a royal mountain, on which they worshipped their god of war, and locals still hold it dear today.

The highest point in the region is Puy du Sancy, at 5,700ft, the source of the Dordogne river. Visitors can reach the peak by cable-car from Le Mont-Dore.

Another highlight is the Troncais Forest, planted during the reign of the Sun King, Louis XIV. One of the best ways to see the trees, including many that are hundreds of years old, is by electric bike.

Have you seen the film Coco Before Chanel? Well, the iconic fashion designer had links to the Auvergne, and actress Audrey Tatou hails from the region, too.

Chanel was at boarding school in Moulins sur Allier, and she performed as a singer/dancer at the mirrored Belle Epoque-style Cafe Grand before reinventing herself as the goddess of chic. You can enjoy a drink in the cafe today.

The spa town of Vichy was infamous because of collaboration with the Nazis during the Second World War, and is now synonymous with the beauty industry. It’s like a mini Paris with designer shops, tree-lined boulevards, a beautiful riverside park and relaxed pavement café culture. The state-of-the-art Vichy Thalassa Les Celestins Spa was a great place to end our trip, and 16 other spa towns in the region show why people have been “taking the waters” here since Roman times.

The region has a strong peasant cuisine, which has spread to the rest of France – many cafes and restaurants in Paris are run by Auvergnats.

In Charroux La Ferme Saint-Sebastian Restaurant, run by Valerie and Phillip Saignie, has taken local cuisine to another level – lamb cooked for seven hours fell off the bone, pâté aux pommes de terre had a soufflé-like lightness and courgettes in batter were as light as air.

Charolais beef accompanied by aligot, an amazing mashed potato and melted cheese concoction, were also high-lights along with the regional wine, St Pourcain, and cheese Bleu d’Auvergne, which, to make you feel like you are still on holiday, you can buy here at the French market when it is in town.

Factfile

Getting there – via Eurostar from London St Pancras to Paris Gare du Nord, transfer to Gare du Lyon for trains to Moulins and Vichy (raileurope.com)

Staying there – Hotel/Restaurant Le Clos de Bourgogne, Moulins (closdebourgogne.fr); Chateau de la Caniere, Thuret (caniere.com); Hotel Sofitel Thalassa Les Celestins, Vichy (sofitel.com); La Grange du Belvedere, Charroux (lagrangedubelvedere.com)

Eating out – La Ferme Saint-Sebastien Restaurant, Charroux (fermesaintsebastien.fr); Auberge La Croix De Fer, Riom (lacroixdefer.restau.free.fr)

Useful websites – auvergne-tourisme.info/uk; franceguide.com; ign.fr; charroux.com; villesdeaux.comt