IN hindsight it was probably the beginning of the end for Gary Rhodes and his culinary affair with Christchurch.

The chef parted company with Kings Hotel last year to concentrate on fine dining at its well-heeled sister restaurant, Rhodes South.

However, he left there this summer, signalling an end to his involvement with the Harbour Hotels Group.

Both restaurants have now moved on. Rhodes South has been renamed The Jetty, and has Michelin star chef Alex Aitkin at the helm, and Kings Rhodes is now Jacks, headed by Gary Cooke, of Masterchef The Professionals fame.

So, big boots to fill then – but as I ate my way through three courses at Jacks last week it really was a case of Rhodes who?

It was Saturday night. The restaurant was packed and a swing singer was gently taking us on a romp through Sinatra and Nat King Cole classics. Very civilised.

After assuaging our hunger with some homemade bread, my girlfriend and I ordered a glass of Altyerre Red and a Pinot Grigio to sip while we pored over the menu – an eclectic mix of Med favourites (gazpacho soup, veggie risotto) and classic comfort food (steak, fish pie, etc).

To start I opted for Devon crab and avocado salad followed by rump of Somerset lamb with spuds, artichoke and broad beans.

Liz ordered the gazpacho followed by monkfish wrapped in Parma ham with samphire plus a side of dauphinoise potatoes.

Although the atmosphere was easygoing, the boutique restaurant had attracted a stylish clientele – I was glad we’d put our glad rags on.

The prompt arrival of food interrupted our people watching. The crab salad was top drawer, loved every morsel. The cold soup, meanwhile, was brimming with intense garlic, basil and tomato flavours. It was just the ticket.

And so were the mains.

The lamb (medium rare) was faultless, melting on my tongue, and the artichoke and broad beans were perfect accompaniments. Good work Gary II.

I could tell the monkfish was great because Liz fell silent (it doesn’t happen often). I confirmed my suspicions when I pinched a fork full – beautiful flavours and expertly cooked. The creamy dauphinoise potatoes were also a triumph.

The jovial waitress goaded us into dessert. Succumbing, I ordered chocolate and marmalade tart with white chocolate ice cream and Liz plumped for white chocolate and hazelnut semifredo.

It was a perfect end and £70 well spent.