SALTED cod is Portugal's national dish, but for my money, sardines are the real taste of Portugal.

Fresh from the sea, seared over some coals, served with a squeeze of lemon, some crusty bread and salad.

Your sardines are unlikely to be fresh from the sea, but you can still lay your hands on them, and they are worth the effort.

Ask your fishmonger to gut them for you, but unless you're really really squeamish, leave the heads on, they hold together better.

And if you're worried about bones, don't - they'll almost all come out in one go if you pull the spine out.

Grilled Sardines

Sardines, gutted and cleaned

sea salt

olive oil

lemon wedges

Sprinkle a layer of salt in a dish and lay the sardines on top. Sprinkle more salt to cover the sardines. Leave for half an hour.

Preheat a griddle pan or barbecue til it's hot.

Rinse the salt from the sardines and pat dry. Brush with olive oil and sprinkle with pepper.

Grill until the skin is charred and the flesh flakes (between three and six minutes per side).

Serve with lemon wedges, salad and fresh crusty bread.