MEMBERSHIP at Dudsbury’s championship golf course has doubled over the past four years.

Why? Well, the new irrigation system means the fairways and greens are lush and true.

There’s a new covered driving range, opened by none other than Peter Alliss – plus the biggest buggy fleet in Dorset.

But I reckon award-winning Bentley’s restaurant must have played a major part in Dudsbury’s popularity – and the good news is that it’s open to the public, not just members.

It’s best to book. We were there on a Friday night, and the place was not far from its 120 capacity. There was one big round table occupied by golfers; otherwise it was families and groups of friends.

The walls, painted in pastel shades, are adorned with pictures of Audrey Hepburn. There’s an ornate chandelier in the centre of the room, well-upholstered high-backed chairs and neatly-folded napkins tucked into sparkling glasses.

Best of all, there are views over the course and the Stour valley, with floor-to-ceiling windows and a door out to a balcony, giving the restaurant a light, spacious feel.

The staff were attentive and friendly, the service efficient and speedy.

Many regulars return not just for the food – excellent though it is – but for the music and large dance floor (it’s one of the few restaurants locally where people can dine and dance).

In keeping with the calming décor, head chef Sean Reynolds (Clubhouse magazine chef of the year in 2008) has cooked up a comforting menu, with a few pleasant surprises among the reassuringly familiar choices.

I kicked off with tempura prawns followed by medallions of beef, while my son went for lobster bisque with fresh crab meat and fillet steak.

The vegetables to accompany our main courses were tasty (particularly the mint-infused new potatoes), well presented and plentiful. For pudding I had crème brulée, while the chocolate and ice cream concoction on the other side of the table looked equally appetising. In a word, delicious.

Bentley’s is open Tuesday to Saturday, from 6pm for dinner, three courses for £25.

There’s also a “Summer Sundown” menu, with a voucher downloaded from the website (dudsburygolfclub. co.uk), or when a previous bill is presented, which is £16.95 for three courses – and four people can then dine for the price of three.

The restaurant is also open for lunch, Tuesday to Friday, and on Sundays for a carvery lunch.