THROUGH the famous beech avenue past Kingston Lacy on the Wimborne to Blandford road, opposite the entrance to Badbury Rings, follow the signs to Shapwick and what must surely be one of the best food pubs anywhere in Dorset.

Chef Grant Dirckze (formerly at the highly-rated Museum in Farnham) says it's too soon to call it a gastro-pub, and it's true that there's no Heston Blumenthal-style bacon and egg ice cream on the menu.

What there is instead is fresh, mainly local produce, prepared and cooked to perfection, and the occasional inspired idea that reflects Grant's background - he grew up in Australia and Hong Kong, and there's often an Oriental influence to his food.

My partner's starter, herb and garlic cheese wontons with a tomato and basil salad, for example, was an interesting and tasty fusion of Far East and East Dorset. My pea and mint soup, meanwhile, was creamy, just the right consistency and subtly flavoured.

My main course, 21-day matured sirloin steak, was cooked exactly as I like it: easy to cut into, but with a satisfying bite, absolutely delicious. And the "proper chips" were just that - chunky, crisp on the outside, fluffy within.

The sea bream came with crushed potato and spring onion, and a saffron and anise veloute. Other main course options were slow roast pork belly with peach and Calvados cream; braised lamb shoulder with new potatoes and wilted spinach; smoked haddock fishcake with poached egg and lemon butter sauce; and linguine of mushroom, garlic and white wine cream.

I was sorely tempted by gooseberry crumble and cinammon ice cream for pudding, but plumped instead for spiced milk chocolate brulee and shortbread biscuits - best summed up in just one word: "Mmmm."

My partner's lemon posset was scrumptious too, and the alternatives - plum and almond tart, strawberries with hot chocolate sauce and Barford Farm ice creams and sorbets - looked equally appealing.

The menu often changes, though, depending on what's in season. With starters between £5 and £6, mains from £10.50 to just under £15 and puddings costing around a fiver, the prices for such quality food are very reasonable - and understated surroundings and friendly, efficient service add to a cracking night out.

The Anchor, run by Mark Thornton and wife Roxy, is a good place to eat out during the day too, with char-grilled ciabattas and a hearty Sunday lunch on offer. It's in a beautiful part of the county, so popular with ramblers and cyclists. If I were you, I'd get on my bike and join them.