MY visit begins with one of the warmest welcomes I've experienced for some time, the sign of attentive staff when you're not left waiting and wondering. The restaurant is one of pure, uncomplicated chic, with an uncluttered approach to decor.

Roots is fast becoming the destination restaurant with a difference. With a choice of four extraordinary tasting menus, you won't be disappointed. The courses are set, the Vegetarian from £39.50, the Mini comprising eight courses (£39.50) to the Discovery Menu, a mighty ten courses (£59.50). An option for wine flights starting at £18.50 is also a solid choice.

My meal begins with a delicate cone of crispy pastry filled with a peppery delicate Baba Ganoush the smokiness of the aubergine perfectly balanced, two fresh mouthfuls of chilled compressed chilli cucumber together with the Roots signature Garden humous adorned with locally sourced Sopley asparagus make up the trio.

I'm sure we think we've seen it all when it comes to new ideas in the world of food, not so. Forget the dessert trolley filled with offerings of sticky, sweet concoctions, this is a new take on something old, and it's a revelation, this was the surprise I didn't know I was waiting for. Hand-made butter accompanied by spinach with truffle oil, tomato compote and seaweed tapenade, I don't ever recall butter that made you believe you were eating a cloud.

The following course of Rice and Peas is re-invented, with fresh mint and cubes of compressed coconut, it's a marriage made in heaven.

I was transported from the Caribbean on a mild spring day to a traditional English garden full of pea shoots and aromatic herbs.

One thought-provoking moment after another, next I'm presented with crystal clear celeriac Consumé, sweet red grapes with black truffle ice cream, an infusion I never thought I would be writing about which leaves me questioning how Chef Jan's brain works.

With Halibut perfectly poached, wrapped in courgette ribbons, artichoke hearts and basil oil, the fragrance suggests the basil may overwhelm the sweet, tender yet firm Halibut, not so, the pairing is inspired.

Next, a course of succulent Truffle Butter Poached Chicken was never going to be an ordinary affair. The seasoning on the crispy chicken skin packed the punch of a much richer main course but accompanied by perfectly snappy asparagus, wild garlic, morels with Sauce Viognier, and you don't just get flavour and aroma but also texture.

By now you're probably thinking, that's it, guess what! It's not. The first of two desserts arrive, direct from the Yorkshire Triangle, the rhubarb is perched on a bed of lemongrass sorbet with compressed coconut, the three complement each other so elegantly they take you around the world in one mouthful. Then, New Forest Strawberries, Elderflower and White Asparagus, the perfect end to a flawless meal.

The staff are welcoming, the wine is well thought out, and the delivery is sublime. Roots Restaurant is, without doubt, a destination you need to take a detour for, Jan and Stacey are creating something which is worth every mile you trek!