“Most people who land in Malaga turn right here,” says my taxi driver, as we fork left towards the city. “They don’t bother with Malaga.”

Shame, because were most holidaymakers less concerned with jostling over their square metre of sand further down the coasts, they’d probably be won over by this charming city.

Perched on the south coast of Spain, today Malaga is sizzling in the October sunshine. Clothes that weren’t keeping me warm in England are now helping me marinate in sweat as the thermometer on the taxi nudges 32 degrees.

It’s a nice problem to have.

Driving into the city, Malaga appears to have given a two-fingered salute to the recession. Cranes punctuate the skyline helping workers construct new apartments and, I am told, museums, which are hugely popular here. So much so that Malaga has been dubbed “the city of museums”, a deserved title thanks to its smorgasbord of museums, dedicated to anything from Flamenco Art and aviation to the sea.

Predictably, Picasso’s birthplace is one of the most popular attractions.

The modest studio apartment in the city centre has been restored to how it was in 1881 when Picasso was born. Thanks in part to the Picasso family, who donated most of the exhibits here, including a painting by Picasso’s father which depicts some pigeons sitting motionless on a cobbled street.

“He wasn’t a very good painter, he couldn’t even paint birds when they were moving,” explains tour guide, Jose Antonio.

“Picasso used to finish his father’s paintings and when his father realised how good his son was, he gave up painting.”

Defeatist that may be but it’s easy to see why he did so, when you look at Picasso’s paintings, sketches and sculptures that are on display here.

However, that’s nothing compared to the amazing exhibition in the nearby Picasso museum, which is an attraction in itself.

With its marble pillars, intricate joinery and beautiful courtyard, the museum is a stunning example of 17th century Spanish architecture and could steal the show from many an artist – but not Picasso.

An amble through the art, life and times of Picasso, the museum’s thought-provoking exhibition is excellent.

From his blue and rose periods to cubism and surrealism, Picasso’s work is fascinating and the devil really is in the detail, which is why it is worth getting a guide. They will also be able to give an insight into his colourful personal life, one littered with broken-hearted women.

For a lighter museum tour I dropped in at the wine museum – it would be rude not to in an area so proud of its wine.

The two-storey, city-centre museum offers a brief tour through Malaga’s wine-making heritage and an all-important tasting session with the jovial staff, who are expert sommeliers and liberal pourers.

In accordance with local custom, lunchtime is 2pm and this seems to take a leisurely two hours wherever you go, especially the uber relaxed El Pimpi (62 Jardines de Alcazabilla), a cosy number that serves spectacular tapas.

El Pimpi’s walls are adorned with signed pictures of Spanish celebrities, but among the footballers and film stars is a picture of Tony Blair.

Still, not even that could put me off my tapas, which was a delicious romp through the local specialities, including some sublime dry-cured ham, spectacular seafood and more fine wine.

While the rest of Spain turned in for a siesta, I ambled around the city’s stunning cathedral, a magnificent 15th-century structure, which remains incomplete due to funding problems and not, I am told, because of centuries of siestas.

Happily I also had time to visit the 11th-century Alcazaba, a Moorish fortification with phenomenal views over the city and, on a clear day, the Atlas Mountains in North Africa.

Less impressive are Malaga’s beaches, which are spoilt by ugly neighbours, namely a shipyard and high rise apartments, which block out the afternoon sunshine.

In true Spanish style, evening entertainment in Malaga is focused on food and the city’s vivacious nightlife. Mainstreamers will appreciate the English-speaking bars on the principal streets, but if you prefer to party like a local wander down the side streets, which are littered with lively watering holes that start warming up at around 1am – suddenly the siesta makes sense.

Getting there

Gavin flew to Malaga from London Gatwick with Monarch Airlines for £76.99 return (monarch.co.uk).

Direct flights from Bournemouth are possible, depending on when you want to fly.

Gavin stayed at the city centre NH Hotel Malaga, where a double room starts at 78 euros per night ( nh-hotels.com ).

For more details about Malaga visit malagaturismo.com