Floating effortlessly in the moonlit Dead Sea was a moment of pure spirituality and serenity – until Israeli fighter jets made an appearance and zipped their way through the night sky above the Jordanian border.

The countries are currently friends, so it was just a bit of flying practice for the pilots of the Israeli Air Force and serenity was soon resumed.

Serene was not the first word that came to mind when I was invited to sample the delights of at times volatile Israel, but I couldn’t have felt safer during a six-day sojourn to this incredible country, which evokes so much emotion in its pilgrims and offers so much to enchant its tourists.

I needed a stiff drink after a strict security grilling at Heathrow Airport and, luckily, among the country’s many hidden talents is its ability to produce rather fabulous wine. The overnight flight to Ben Gurion International Airport passed in a whirlwind of dinner, drinks and a power nap.

The 4am arrival into rainy Tel Aviv came as a slight shock to the system, but we were soon heading out of the rain and the capital city north and into the sunshine towards the Peace Observation Point where we had a stunning panoramic view of the Sea of Galilee, the largest freshwater lake in Israel and thought to be the site of many Biblical tales including the miraculous catch of fish.

Close to the Syrian border, residents at Peace Vista, operated on a kibbutz in the Golan Heights, told of hearing gunfire at times.

But during our visit we couldn’t have felt more relaxed, floating in warm water and salt water pools, drinking in breathtaking scenery.

Our base for two nights was the luxury Hotel Spa Mizpe Hayamim. A celebrated health farm, I was impressed by the on-site organic farm which supplies most of the produce cooked up in the hotel’s two award-winning restaurants – one meat, one vegetarian to comply with Jewish dietary laws.

The tasting menu offered up at the Muscat Restaurant was a taste sensation and some of the greatest food I’ve ever eaten. The food is fantastic everywhere in Israel, though, from street falafels to hummus served up in a backstreet cafe.

From here, we visited Hamat Gader – another tourist attraction operated by four kibbutzes and consisting of modern mineral springs, ancient Roman baths, slides and an alligator farm.

Amirim, a unique vegetarian village in Galilee, offers holistic therapies, arts and crafts, music – and gorgeous views.

During a visit to Safed, one of the four holy cities of Israel, we were given an insight into the Jewish mystical tradition of Kabbalah and toured a host of beautiful old synagogues.

It was straight from the highest city in Israel to the lowest place on earth. The Dead Sea is 419 metres below sea level and one of the finalists in the search for the seven natural wonders of the world.

Visitors can float effortlessly on the waters due to its concentration of minerals, which is the highest in the world.

Close to the Dead Sea is the UNESCO World Heritage site of Massada, the ruins of King Herod’s mountaintop fortress and last stronghold of the Jewish revolt against the Romans in 73CE. We also took a jeep ride through the rugged desert before heading to the holiest city in the world.

Jerusalem is the capital of Israel and the holy city for the three monotheistic religions – Judaism, Christianity and Islam. At the city’s heart is the old city, a square kilometre walled area divided into four quarters – Jewish, Armenian, Christian and Muslim. Inside the walls are the important holy sites of the three major religions.

The Western Wall is holy to the Jews as the last remnant of the Temple. The Church of the Sepulchre is the place where Orthodox and Catholic Christians mark the crucifixion and burial of Jesus. The Dome of the Rock is a magnificent octagon, which dominates the Old City and is a shrine for Islam’s third most holy site. Each one was utterly fascinating, as were a host of other places to make a pilgrimage, almost around every corner.

Alongside Jerusalem’s fascinating historic and archaeological sites, there are amazingly modern tourist attractions for all lovers of culture, a particular favourite being the Night Spectacular at the Tower of David Museum in the Citadel. This sound and light show somehow captures the 3,000 year history of Jerusalem in an hour-long spectacle.

We spent two nights at the well-appointed and well-located five-star David Citadel Hotel, overlooking the Old City. Particular highlights were sunrise and sunset swims with views of the walls.

On the last day of a fabulous trip we took a short tour of Tel Aviv.Known as the White City because of its architecture, it is Israel’s commercial, cultural and financial centre and boasts beaches next to skyscrapers and an impressive marina development.

On our whirlwind tour, I found Israel is not a large country. You can drive from its northern border to its southern tip in less than ten hours. From east to west, it will take you less than two hours.

But Israel belies its size, containing an unimaginable wealth of natural landscapes, historical treasures and so much more.

You’ll be surprised at what you might find.

Getting there

For further information on Israel, visit thinkisrael.com or call 0207 299 1100.

El Al offers flights from London Luton to Tel Aviv from £399 per person or from London Heathrow to Tel Aviv from £426 per person.

To book, call 0207 121 1400 visit elal.uk or contact your travel agent.