Riding through the Arizona desert

TELL most people you're going to Arizona, and they assume you mean the Grand Canyon.

But the awe-inspiring wonder of nature is not the only reason to head for the Copper State.

Southern Arizona is where one of the most memorable shoot-outs took place, immortalised in such classic Westerns as Gunfight at the OK Corral and the 1993 film Tombstone.

It's a magnet for those with an interest in history and culture, with prehistoric ruins and Native American Indian museums and mining history.

Tucson and Southern Arizona have several museums devoted to the lost peoples of Arizona and the various Native American Indian tribes still living there.

I never expected to find the preserved ruins of a 1,500-year-old Hohokam village right in the middle of the bustle and commerce of modern-day Phoenix.

Pueblo Grande Museum and Archaeological Park explores the history of the Hohokam, or, as the American Indians called them, "the people who have gone".

Fascinatingly, a structure in the centre of the village, resembling a large empty swimming pool, is actually the remains of a Hohokam ball court. It's not known whether the game was considered a religious ritual or the national sport, but participants were considered the David Beckhams of their day.

On the drive between Phoenix and Tucson, we crossed desert plains with views of the Superstitions, Picacho Peak and the Santa Catalina Mountains.

One of the most surprising things about Arizona is the abundance of large and colourful butterflies wherever you go. Although we visited in mid-October, temperatures were around a pleasantly comfortable 80F. As far as I could tell the only drawback to visiting at this time is that you're unlikely to catch sight of a hummingbird, as they have mostly migrated to Mexico by then.

The landscape is littered with huge saguaro cacti, and watch out for tiny lizards scampering across your path - most are harmless, though, apart from the Gila Monster, which can give you a nasty bite.

The unearthly rock formations almost gave the impression of being on another planet - not surprisingly, several episodes of Star Trek were shot here.

Also worth a look is the amazing rock art on the Signal Hill Petroglyphs Trail in Saguaro National Park West. It's an easy half-mile walk through the amazing cowboy film landscape, but be sure to wear shoes, not sandals, to protect against cactus needles and scorpions.

Tombstone in Cochise County, immortalised in Westerns as "the town too tough to die" is the most exciting part of the visit. Most people on the street appear to be dressed up as famous film characters, and sometimes you believe you really did spot Doc Holliday wandering by - and there are plenty of landmarks straight out of the Wild West, including Big Nose Kate's Saloon and the famous Bird Cage Theatre.

Once a brothel, saloon and gambling hall, the theatre once opened 24 hours a day, seven days a week, but is now a museum. It still bears the scars of those violent days, with real bullet holes in the walls and paintings.

We were taken around by a convincing Wyatt Earp lookalike, who made the story of the Gunfight at the OK Corral come vividly to life. The famous gunfight lasted only 30 seconds, rather less than in the movie.

Film buffs can also get a burger at Six Gun City, where actors continually re-enact the famous gunfight in the courtyard.

Although some might criticise me for buying into the commercialism of Tombstone, I couldn't leave without buying a cowboy hat and marshal's badge.

Another fascinating stop-off in Cochise County was the Queen Mine tour in the old mining town of Bisbee.

I felt like a real miner as I was fitted out with hard hat and headlamp and taken through dark tunnels as our guide explained about the work of the miners and the dangers they faced. Be sure to wrap up warm. It was still 80F outside, but icy cold inside the shaft.

We stayed at the Copper Queen Hotel, with an abundance of resident ghosts, including a little boy who opens and closes doors and the spirit of a tragic young woman.

Another unmissable photo opportunity was the visit to Our Lady of the Sierras Shrine with its 75ft Celtic cross and 32ft statue of the Madonna.

Climbing the steep steps was made worthwhile by spectacular views of the Huachuacas and San Pedro Valley.

After remarking to the tour guide that the church probably doesn't get a big congregation with a climb like that every Sunday, I learned that we could have driven up there. Drat!

One of the most romantic and atmospheric places we visited was the ruined church at Tumacacori National Historical Park.

Tumacacori is closely associated with Father Kino, a famous Jesuit missionary who arrived in 1691. The massive adobe ruin was built by Franciscan Father Narciso Gutierrez, but never quite finished.

It finally fell into disrepair after Pima Indians were forced out by raiding Apaches, and became a national historical park in 1990.

The place had an air of intense peace and tranquillity, and our guide himself could almost have come straight out of the past, surprising us all by bursting into song inside the church.

During our adventures we stayed at the Sheraton Wild Horse Pass Resort and Spa - an AAA four diamond rated resort owned by the Gila River Indian Community, and located on their 372,000 acre reservation.

The hotel, beautifully adorned with depictions of characters from Pima and Maricopa Indian legends, has 500 culturally-themed rooms - and the retaurant offers an authentic American Indian menu.

We also stayed at Hacienda del Sol, a guest ranch resort set in the Catalina foothills in Tucson, reputed to have been one of the favourite hide-outs for film stars Katherine Hepburn and Spencer Tracy.

factfile

Trailfinders can tailor-make holidays to Arizona including fly-drives from £419 per person including direct flights with British Airways (from Heathrow) and seven days' car hire. Travellers can book four-star hotels in Phoenix and Scottsdale from £27 per person. Prices are based on two sharing and travelling until June 30. Contact Trailfinders on 0845 050 5871. Visit arizonaguide.com

3:25pm Friday 2nd May 2008

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