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Smiles better
A Thai fishing boat makes it way back to port off Patong Beach
A Thai fishing boat makes it way back to port off Patong Beach

COULD we be living in the golden age of affordable travel? Holidays have been getting cheaper year on year with the explosion of budget airlines, new destinations offer more choice and every country now seems to be doing its utmost to cash in on its tourism potential.

But with more controls in the offing to curb climate change, long-haul holidays may begin to get more expensive.

So if you have ever fancied a dream holiday in a far-flung destination, perhaps it's time to get moving.

And where better to start that search than Thailand. It's the self-styled "Land of Smiles", and unlikely to disappoint.

Most people start their holiday with a few nights in Bangkok, and it would be a travesty to miss out on this most alluring of cities. The flight with Eva Air was first class at economy prices, with plenty of leg-room, good food and attentive staff.

Bangkok itself is a bizarre mix of ramshackle huts, shopping malls, skyscrapers and ancient temples. The pace is frenetic and the traffic horrendous, but it's a truly amazing place: lively, colourful, totally absorbing.

I stayed at the Amari Atrium Hotel on New Petchburi Road, just a short walk from the underground station and a short taxi ride from the city centre.

The hotel offers a variety of stylish and comfortable guestrooms, all air-conditioned, with several other modern amenities. The food is superb and the service exemplary.

Damnoen Dadual floating market
Damnoen Dadual floating market

Wat Pho Temple is home to an enormous gold-plated reclining Buddha, 46 metres long and 15 metres high, its feet and eyes decorated with mother of pearl. The temple has the largest collection of Buddha images and is also the centre for the teaching and preservation of traditional Thai medicine.

Tourists are welcome at the temples, but reminded to show respect. Also take time to visit Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) - this famous Chao Phraya riverbank landmark, diagonally opposite the Grand Palace, is best known for a porcelain-encrusted 79 metre high central pagoda which sparkles in the sun.

The Grand Palace itself is a sight to behold: a complex of beautiful buildings and also home to the emerald Buddha, the most revered Buddha image in Thailand.

Khaosan Road, the main backpackers' hang-out, is also worth a visit. It has loads of restaurants, beauty and massage centres, travel agents and markets where you can barter for almost anything.

As night falls head for the markets of Patpong. The area is alive with street vendors and stallholders selling every type of merchandise (mostly fake).

This is also the centre of Bangkok's eclectic shows and go-go dancers. If nothing else, it is worth visiting just to sit at a street bar and watch Bangkok life, in all its glory, pass you by.

The Damnoen Saduak Floating Market is quite a trek west of Bangkok. It is best to make a very early start and you can travel around by boat through the canals and check out the hundreds of vendors selling their produce from boats. A regular bus runs from the Southern Bus Terminal.

Next stop, Phuket, Thailand's largest island, about an hour's flight from the capital.

This lush island has become steadily more built up over the years, but still manages to retain much of its charm.

Phuket offers beautiful beaches and a range of watersports. Sightseers can visit Phuket town and the small rural temples, most famously Wat Pra Tong.

Thalang National Museum provides insight into indigenous cultures and the history of the Thais on Phuket.

Sea gypsies are considered the indigenous people of Phuket and are related to the Malaysian Orang Laut and the southern Thai Sakai tribes. They have a few small settlements on the island, including Koh Sirey, east of Phuket Town, and Rawai Beach just south of Chalong Bay.

Phuket has family-friendly resorts, hotels for romantic breaks and offers golf and spa holidays. The nightlife is legendary and the main centre of the action is bustling Patong, that really comes alive around 10pm. There are some excellent restaurants close to the beach, and the standard of local cuisine, even from the street stalls, was superb.

Ko Hae, or Coral Island, is a popular day trip option; much quieter than Phuket, where you can relax or go snorkelling or scuba diving.

The picture postcard Phi Phi islands, some of the loveliest in Southeast Asia, are just a 45-minute boat-ride from Phuket. They boast classic beaches, stunning rock formations and vivid turquoise waters teeming with colourful marine life.

There are two main islands, Phi Phi Don and Phi Phi Leh, and, although they can get a little crowded in peak season, it is worth making the effort to visit.

I struck lucky with the Burasari, just off Patong Beach, one of the "Special Hotels of the World", a collection of the world's finest hotels and resorts.This elegant resort offers an idyllic escape and the perfect getaway destination for total relaxation or a special romantic break. There are two swimming pools, Floyd's Brasserie (menu created by Keith Floyd), bar and pool bar, room service and indulgent massage and spa facilities. Contemporary Thai-style rooms with private terraces overlook the pool.

Burasari is just a few steps away from the main beach area, and within easy walking distance of shops, restaurants, cafes, bars and diving shops.

But it was the staff that really made it special. Every smile is genuine and every request dealt with quickly and efficiently. It was something I encountered everywhere in this stunning country.

factfile

Diarmuid MacDonagh travelled with Eva Air from London Heathrow to Bangkok. Return flights from around £460 - visit evaair.com Burasari Resort, Phuket - rooms from £70 during high season, call (66) 76 292 929 or 0207 389 3658 or 0800 032 8212 or visit burasari.com or ghotw.com/shotw Amari Atrium Hotel, Bangkok - call 66 (0) 2718 2000 or visit amari.com/atrium

8:41am Saturday 26th January 2008

   

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