9:00am Wednesday 14th October 2009
By Gavin Haines
Were it not for the chill in the air, Saturday could have passed itself off as a mid-summer’s day in Purbeck.
The only clouds in the sky billowed from the chimney of a steam engine as it chugged along the Swanage railway line – it was perfect weather for the annual grape harvest at the Purbeck Vineyard.
Planted on a slope (for maximum exposure to the sun), the vineyard’s elevated position gives it the perfect panorama across the valley, which is lined with lush green countryside and interrupted only by the railway track.
While the sun evaporated the morning dew, locals, friends and family of vineyard owners, Theresa and Robert Steel, congregated in the garden and discussed the upcoming harvest over tea and biscuits.
The general consensus was that 2009 would be a vintage year for the Purbeck Vineyard – apparently this was thanks to our Indian Summer which, happily, is showing no sign of abating.
“The previous two years were poor harvests because of the wet summers,” said Robert.
“But this year is looking very good, we’ve had a lot of sunshine and we’re quite excited about the crop.”
It was also looking good as far as willing volunteers were concerned. A quick head count estimated there to be approximately 30 harvestmen, women and children, all keen to help strip the vines.
After a quick ’elf and safety briefing we were given secateurs and baskets, and wandered from the garden to the vineyard.
As we did so, the train to Corfe Castle chugged past, provoking shouts of “train” and a scramble for cameras.
Kodak moments over, we got into pairs and tackled a row of vines between us, chatting through them and snipping off bunches of grapes as we went.
“It’s quite sociable when you’re picking the grapes,” Theresa said.
“You can chat to whoever is working on the other side of the vines, which is where the expression ‘heard it through the grapevine’ comes from.”
Half an hour into the harvest, the vineyard was alive with chatter.
Conversations flitted between anything from trivial gossip, music and football to banter directed at slowcoaches like me.
As our baskets filled with grapes, Robert exchanged them for empty ones and took our haul away on his mini tractor.
Many hands made light work of the harvest and by the time elevenses came around there were dozens of baskets of grapes stacked up at the top of the vineyard.
Unsurprisingly, the conversation during the tea break was dominated by the vineyard’s impressive yield and how, gradually, England is becoming a credible producer of quality wine.
“English wine is getting better and the wine industry here is growing,” explained Theresa, who bought the vineyard back in 2006.
Although climate change has helped make Britain ideal for growing grapes, Theresa believes producers are constantly improving and therefore so is the wine.
“Vineyard owners are planting more intelligently and looking after their vineyards better,” she said.
“People are surprised when they have English wine, it’s not what they expect.
They confuse it with British wine, which was horrible stuff made from imported grapes.”
After talking shop over a cup of tea, I make my way back to the vines with the other volunteers.
Although it is relaxing, jovial work, bending down to pick the grapes gradually became tiring and I would wager that it came as a relief to the volunteers when the harvest was finished.
Especially as it culminated in a harvester’s feast, which was Robert and Theresa’s way of saying thank you.
A quick stock take estimated that around two tonnes of grapes had been picked, which should produce approximately 3,000 bottles of wine.
However, the Steels and the volunteers will have to wait nearly a year to taste the fruits of their labour because the wine won’t be ready until next summer.
If you hope to procure a bottle, expect a queue.
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