Most would probably know Le Mans for little other than its famous 24-hour motor race, but it – and the region in which it sits – is a place with much more to offer.

A leisurely four-hour drive from Cherbourg – quicker but less pretty if you opt for the toll roads – after a four-and-a-half-hour ferry crossing from Poole brings you to the Sarthe area of the Loire region and its capital city, Le Mans.

A candidate for UNESCO world heritage status, it is a city of some contrast, with a centuries-old quarter separating two much more modern areas.

The old town, known as the Plantagenet City in recognition of Henry II, who was born there, is a mesmerising place, with a mix of architecture from Roman times, including the old city walls, up to a few hundred years ago, with half-timbered houses and Renaissance mansions.

The streets are narrow and cobbled and ooze a real Frenchness.

The cathedral of St Julien dates back to the fifth century and was added to progressively over hundreds of years.

It appears from almost nowhere, yet dominates the edge of the Plantagenet City and looms over the much more modern centre below.

The old town is home to some quintessentially Gallic eateries, including Le Nez-Rouge, where we ate on our first night.

We were dazzled with some stunning dishes, worthy of any high-end restaurant but without the high-end price, while on our second night we enjoyed a more traditional, hearty menu at Les Cocottes Sarthoises.

Both were just a delightful taste of the culinary delights on offer in the city – including rillettes, a tasty type of pork pâté served as an aperitif – nestled within the centuries-old streets.

Our accommodation was well-placed, about 10 minutes’ walk to the old town.

Les Cabanes de Do were a novel place to stay – three designer cabins built in the pleasant garden of an old farmhouse and beautifully decorated like modern hotel rooms with bathroom, fridge, wi-fi, a flat screen TV and a breakfast basket with croissants and a baguette brought to your door in the mornings.

While Le Mans offers much to take in, the wider Sarthe region is home to what you might call a true rural French experience.

On the outskirts of the city is Arche de la Nature, a 450-hectare area of river, forest, farmland and historic buildings.

Various walks are available and the two-hour option we took saw us enjoy a stroll by the river, spotting wildlife on the fields and meandering through thick forest.

It is a place popular with walkers, cyclists and families thanks to its location barely 10 minutes from the centre of Le Mans.

The River Sarthe, which runs parallel to the ancient city walls, was almost a constant during our trip and was most apparent on our trip out into the countryside to the village of Avoise.

A former municipal campsite, L’Oeil dans le Retro, awaited us.

The ‘retro’ bit catches the eye – and with good reason.

As well as maintaining plenty of pitches for those with their own caravan or camper, the site is now home to a collection of retro caravans from recent decades.

It also has a large caravan-style restaurant and bar, where we were treated to a great barbecue meal with our host.

Our home for the night was a 1960s number and it was a quirky way to enjoy the delights of the countryside, with our pitch metres away from the River Sarthe.

The river continued to be by our side as we spent a day on bikes, following a suggested route that took us from sleepy French village to sleepy French village.

It was a great way to immerse ourselves in a real French experience, with swathes of countryside broken up by villages that had little else than the odd shop or bar.

One highlight was the 1,000-year-old Benedictine abbey at Solemes, rising majestically alongside the River Sarthe.

Not far from Avoise is another picturesque town, Malicorne, again alongside the river.

It is home to an old pottery with a museum and workshop where you can try your hand.

The Sarthe area offers so much for a real taste of France and is an ideal holiday spot for families looking to explore by car.

It might not be your first thought for a trip across the Channel, but it is one well worth considering for a truly Gallic experience.

And that’s aside from the annual jamboree that surrounds the aforementioned motor race.

Factfile

For a range of ideas for holidays and short breaks in Sarthe visit tourisme-en-sarthe.com

We travelled with Brittany Ferries on the Barfleur from Poole to Cherbourg – brittanyferries.com or 0871 244 1400.

Find out more on the locations for our stay at the following: 

  • Les Cabanes de Do  – lescabanesdedo.com
  • Le Nez-Rouge – restaurant-lenezrouge-lemans.fr
  • Arche de la Nature  – arche-nature.fr
  • Les Cocottes Sarthoises – auxcocottessarthoises.fr/cocottessarthoises
  • L’Oeil dans le Retro – campingloeildansleretro.fr