The Weld Arms, East Lulworth

I HAD been scouring Dorset looking for pubs that offered traditional games as part of a feature I was writing for the Echo’s weekend magazine.

My search brought me to the Weld Arms in East Lulworth, at about teatime one evening last week.

The country roads surrounding the tiny village were quiet, dark and creepy, a complete contrast to the warmth and cheer inside this rural boozer.

As my partner and I walked into the pub we were welcomed by friendly staff, a roaring fire and (most importantly) two vacant sofas in front of the hearth – it was more like a family home than a pub.

The biting air and gale force winds were history as we sipped our drinks – a pint of Dorset Gold and a G & T – and perused the menu in front of the fire.

Suitably warm we dragged ourselves off the sofas and onto a table near the bar, where we ordered some food – fish and chips and the pork tenderloin with new potatoes and vegetables.

Running dry, we also ordered two large glasses of the sumptuous Solar Viejo.

As we waited for our food there was plenty to keep us entertained including a chess board and a shove ha’penny board, which I was told is more than 100 years old.

Happily the food arrived before the games got too competitive and the dishes looked superb.

Without asking, the jovial waitress brought a couple of glasses of water to our table and it was touches like these that made the service exemplary.

The food was extraordinary too.

Clearly subscribing to the “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” ethos, The Weld Arms served a classic fish and chips with peas.

The crispy batter, succulent fillet and perfectly cooked chips were spot on.

Looking at the fish and chips I almost regretted not choosing it myself, but the pork tenderloin won me over.

The meat was tender and juicy, the gravy rich and creamy and the colourful selection of crunchy vegetables was perfect.

Warm, content and in no mood to leave the pub, we grudgingly stepped back into the cold air to return home.

Including drinks the bill came to a reasonable £39.70.

The Weld Arms had spoiled us.

Update: March 2011.

UNFORTUNATELY a subsequent attempt at reviewing the Weld Arms has left me bitterly disappointed.

Last Monday I visited the country boozer hoping to treat my girlfriend to a birthday meal that wasn't to be.

The website advised us that the pub was open from 11.30am until 10.30pm, but it was very much closed when we arrived at 4pm on what was a chilly day in the Purbecks.

Noticing our disappointment from inside (we’d cycled all the way there from Wool), a man opened the door and let us into the pub.

We thanked him and explained that we'd come for dinner (which is served there from 6pm) - he duly poured us a Guinness and a glass of Rioja to sip while we waited.

Inside we were disappointed to find the cosy sofas by the fire had been replaced with two dining tables – presumably, it was done to shoehorn more diners into the pub.

And there was no sign of the brilliant pub games that had entertained us last time; a little bit of the Weld Arms' character seemed to have disappeared.

By 5pm our glasses were empty, so we went to order more drinks.

However, the lady pottering around the bar told us she had paperwork to do; they’d only opened for us, she said, and we’d have to leave.

We mentioned the opening times on the website but she barked that they were out of date and said it wasn’t her fault.

Incredulous, we told her we'd only come in on the basis we could wait until the kitchen opened, which by now was less than an hour away.

“I didn’t let you in,” she shrugged, maintaining we’d have to leave because she had to prepare the kitchen. I thought she had paperwork to do?

She wouldn’t budge. The out-of-date website wasn’t her fault, the communication breakdown wasn’t her problem and, although we’d sat in the pub, quieter than church mice for an hour and ten minutes, we couldn’t stay an extra 50 minutes to spend more money.

So she took our £8.15 for the drinks and we took our business elsewhere.

Times are tough for boozers at the moment, with management like that they’ll get a whole lot tougher.

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