EVERYONE knows the old adage about not judging a book by its cover and occasionally the same sentiment can be applied to places like the Blue Boar in Poole.

For although it looks like a traditional British pub from the outside, this three-story venue now houses a chic restaurant in what was originally used as a function room in the cellar.

Once we had wormed our way downstairs it was easy to imagine that we were in a trendy wine bar in an upmarket London suburb complete with grand piano.

The really good news though is that you won't be charged London prices. In fact the night we were there it was what the manager Adam Morris was calling, A Pay What You Think Your Food is Worth night.

"At the end of the night you are shown what your food would have come to then you say how much you think it was worth and pay accordingly, " he explains.

Refreshingly this is a place that actively encourages feedback. Live music is also a key feature on Saturdays with a regular pianist and music duo.

So what about the food? For starters I had a seafood gratin with slivers of smoked fish in a creamy sauce with a light breadcrumb topping served with a doorstep of granary bread on the side and a mixed salad garnish drizzled with a balsamic glaze.

Meanwhile my husband was dipping into a meaty, rich lobster bisque enhanced with double cream and a splash of cognac. For his main course he had lamb shank which had been slow cooked and was served on a garlic and herb mash with a shallot and caper gravy.

My son ordered fillet steak which was perched on a bacon and potato rosti and doused with an eye-wateringly hot creole inspired sauce (to be fair he was warned that it was hot and that it could be toned down!)

For mains I was tempted to try the aubergine tomato and halloumi stack but eventually decided to try the seared tuna steak.

This was served with a tangy apple and tarragon salsa which really complimented the delicate flavour of the fish. My only criticism was that the tuna wasn't quite hot enough but all the portions were generous and included a selection of vegetables including chunky chips and potato dauphinoise.

Puddings ranged from French apple tart with clotted cream and chocolate fudge brownies to Baileys & butterscotch profiteroles.

Essentially this is posh pub grub with some innovative and elegant touches and very atmospheric. It's also worth noting that the Blue Boar is regularly featured in the Good Beer Guide and has held Master Cellarman status for the past 15 years. All in all, well worth a visit.