THIS Father’s Day, cook dad a blokey banquet he won’t forget. Chef Brendan Collins prides himself on serving manly mouthfuls.
According to his mate Curtis Stone, Brendan Collins is a “pub-loving meat man” who’s a “big softie” at heart.
The chefs worked together over 15 years ago at Marco Pierre White’s Quo Vadis restaurant in London and have followed similar paths, now both whipping up storms in the fancy kitchens of Los Angeles.
Indeed, Stone loves his friend’s food so much, he raves about it in the foreword of new book Cooking, Blokes + Artichokes. But despite having all the knowledge and skill to create dainty and delicious dishes, Collins loves nothing more than good, home-cooked fare.
“My views on food are quite simple: it should be fresh, tasty, and no more complicated than it needs to be,” says Collins. “That isn’t some kind of ‘ethos’ dreamed up over days spent gazing philosophically at a bunch of radishes. It’s the only thing that makes sense to a bloke raised above pubs in the north of England.”
Why not follow Collins’ example and cook your dad a proper man-sized meal this Father’s Day?
LAMBURGERS
(Serves 4)
15g unsalted butter
100g sliced white mushrooms
900g minced lamb
Sea salt
4tbsp Caramelised Onion Compote
4 slices Gruyere or other Swiss cheese
4 burger buns
20g rocket leaves
Freshly ground black pepper
Olive oil for drizzling
4tbsp Special Sauce
For the Caramelised Onion Compote:
120ml extra virgin olive oil
900g white onions, thinly sliced
1tbsp brown sugar
1/2 bottle stout or porter beer
2tbsp beef stock
1tbsp balsamic vinegar
Coarse sea salt and freshly cracked pepper
For the Special Sauce:
115g Greek yogurt
1tbsp diced roasted red pepper
1tbsp diced cornichons
1tbsp diced capers
1 1/2tsp fresh lemon juice
1 1/2tsp harissa paste or harissa powder
1tbsp chopped fresh mint
1tbsp chopped fresh coriander
Coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
To make the Caramelised Onion Compote, heat the oil in a large, heavy-based saucepan set over a medium-high heat until it shimmers.
Tip in the onions and brown sugar and spread them evenly in the pan. Reduce to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions become soft (about 30-45 minutes).
Chuck in all the liquids and cook until they’re three quarters reduced, continuing to stir the onions regularly. Season the mixture with salt and pepper.
Remove the onions from the heat and let them cool completely.
Load the onions into a sterilised jar and close it tightly. The compote will keep in the fridge for around two weeks.
To make the Special Sauce, chuck all the ingredients in a small bowl, mix them well and season the sauce with salt and pepper.
For the burgers, heat the butter in a cast-iron pan over a medium-high heat until it melts and begins to foam. Add the mushrooms and cook until soft and golden. Set aside.
Prepare your grill for medium-high-heat cooking.
Divide your lamb into four 225g portions. Season them generously with salt and roll each into a ball. Wrap the balls tightly in cling film and then flatten them with the heel of your hand into patties about 12.5cm in diameter and 1cm thick. Use your thumb to make a dimple in the centre of the patty. Remove the cling film.
Place the burgers on the grill over direct heat. Leave them alone for three minutes for medium-rare; add a minute or two for a better-cooked burger. Flip them, and after two minutes, top each with the Caramelised Onion Compote, mushrooms and cheese. Cook the burgers for a further minute, then remove them to a serving plate.
Place the buns on the grill for a minute or two to warm them. In a small bowl, dress the rocket with salt, pepper and a bit of oil.
Spread the bottom of each bun with Special Sauce, then transfer the burgers to their buns. Top them with the rocket, close with a bun and serve.
TRIPLE-COOKED CHIPS
(Serves 4)
900g Maris Piper or russet potatoes
Sea salt
Rapeseed oil for frying
Scrub the potatoes under cold water. Using a sharp knife, square off their round edges slightly, then slice them 1.5cm thick.
Preheat the oven to 190C/gas mark 5.
Chuck the chips in a pan and cover them with cold, seawater-salty water by at least 2.5cm.
Bring the water to the simmer over a medium-high heat. Leave the potatoes to cook all the way through, five or so minutes after the water begins to simmer.
Line two baking sheets with greaseproof paper. Remove the potatoes from the hot water to one of the sheets and place them in the oven for two minutes to dry.
If you’ve got an electric fryer, use it, because they’re way safer. If not, take a heavy pan and fill it half full with oil. Position a thermometer in the oil and heat it nice and slow over a medium heat until the temperature reads 150C.
Transfer the potatoes to the fryer in batches and fry them until pale golden, for about two minutes. Remove them from the fryer with a slotted spoon or skimmer to the second parchment-lined baking sheet, and place them back in the oven for a further two minutes. At this point, the chips can be cooled and stored in a sealed container in the fridge for a day or two.
Increase the oil temperature to 190C and return the chips to the fryer once more, again working in batches. This time, cook them until deep golden and very crisp, for two to three minutes. Move them on to kitchen paper and hit them with salt. Serve immediately.
Cooking, Blokes + Artichokes by Brendan Collins is published by Kyle Books, priced £19.99. Available now
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