“As soon as I started to speak, I said to my family, ‘I want to be a baker and travel’,” the boulanger recalls.

Kayser opened his first bread shop in Paris in 1996, and these days, he jets around the world to open new bakeries. Now he’s in the UK to promote his new book, The Larousse Book Of Bread (containing more than 80 mouth-watering recipes), and pass on some of his expert tips on creating the perfect brioche, baguette or bagel.

Making bread isn’t easy, but with simple equipment and good ingredients (“the most important thing”), something delicious can be created, according to Kayser.

“If you have a small mixer, a good oven and your hands, it will be OK. And a good brain!”

With all that kneading and proofing, however, baking bread from scratch isn't something most people can factor into their busy lives.

But giving it a go once a week – or even once a month – is fine, says Kayser.

Here is one of Kayser’s recipes to try at home.

Pumpernickel bread

Makes two loaves, each about 615g

  • Mixing and kneading: 8min
  • First rising: 1hr
  • Proofing: 16-20hrs
  • Baking: 6hrs

300g dark rye flour

150g plain flour

50g pre-cooked bulgur wheat

500g (generous 2 cups) water at 80F (25C)

120g liquid sourdough starter (or 25g/2tbsp dry sourdough starter)

10g salt

60g clear honey

40g mixed seeds (anise, coriander, fennel, and caraway)

Butter for greasing

You will need two loaf pans with sliding lids, each 6 1/2 x 3 x 3 inches (17 x 7.5 x 7.5 cm). Alternatively, use ordinary loaf pans, although you won’t get the same oblong shape.

If kneading in a stand mixer: Put the two flours, bulgur wheat, water, starter, salt and honey in the bowl. Knead with the dough hook for four minutes at low speed, then for four minutes at high speed. Add the mixed seeds towards the end of the kneading time, and knead until the mixture is creamy.

If kneading by hand: Put the two flours and the bulgur wheat in a mixing bowl and make a large well in the centre. Pour in half the water, starter, salt and honey. Mix well, then add the remaining water and knead until all the flour is incorporated. Add the mixed seeds and knead until the mixture is creamy.

Cover the bowl with a damp cloth and leave the dough to rest for one hour. It will have increased in volume by the end of the rising time.

Butter the loaf pans and their lids. Fill them two-thirds full with the dough and smooth the surface. Close the lids and leave to proof for 16-20 hours, by which time the dough will have expanded to almost fill the pans.

Preheat the oven to 230F (110C). Make sure the lids are on securely and bake for six hours.

Remove from the oven, turn out the loaves, and leave to cool on a wire rack.

  • The Larousse Book Of Bread: Recipes To Make At Home, by Eric Kayser, is published by Phaidon, £24.95